Thursday, February 17, 2005

Home at last

We are safe and sound...We are renting a neat little house in a place called Bajo Calvo it is close to other little towns called Bajos de Orco, Guaitil, and Toledo. We are in Acosta, about five miles from San Ignacio, the municipal center. However, that five miles takes a good thirty minutes because the majority of the road is unpaved. We have several neighbors who are all more or less in the same extended family. We rent the house from this family. They are fantastic. They have great oranges and limes and we are getting spoiled on fresh produce. Our house is quite adequate. There are actually three beds. One in a guest room and one sort of out back in a storage room. I will not ask anyone to stay in this room. Anyhow, we have a place to do our laundry (by hand) and a sacadora, or machine that spins the laundry very quickly to get most of the moisture out. Our kitchen is fine, but Ancho is aching to purchase a gas stove, because ours is electric. We also are lacking an oven, which has drawbacks. The only other lack is hot water, which we are working on presently. Here, noone uses a hotwater heater, but instead they use these sort of hazardous looking contraptions that one might think of as a point of use heater in a shower head. Ethan, you should cringe now. Taped electric connections within a few inches of a shower head. Ground? GFCI? what is that? We took a long walk this morning with my friends Cecilia and Marina. It was very pretty. Ancho is finally starting to get my explanation of why running here proves difficult. You are either walking up or down, not much in between.
Anyhow, we are enjoying cooking for ourselves and having some down time. I will probably start doing some more anthropological type stuff in the coming days. Ancho is plotting his training for the Tour de France 2006. We hope that everyone is well.

Much love,
Ancho and Lefty

A new home

We are safe and sound...We are renting a neat little house in a place called Bajo Calvo it is close to other little towns called Bajos de Orco, Guaitil, and Toledo. We are in Acosta, about five miles from San Ignacio, the municipal center. However, that five miles takes a good thirty minutes because the majority of the road is unpaved. We have several neighbors who are all more or less in the same extended family. We rent the house from this family. They are fantastic. They have great oranges and limes and we are getting spoiled on fresh produce. Our house is quite adequate. There are actually three beds. One in a guest room and one sort of out back in a storage room. I will not ask anyone to stay in this room. Anyhow, we have a place to do our laundry (by hand) and a sacadora, or machine that spins the laundry very quickly to get most of the moisture out. Our kitchen is fine, but Ancho is aching to purchase a gas stove, because ours is electric. We also are lacking an oven, which has drawbacks. The only other lack is hot water, which we are working on presently. Here, noone uses a hotwater heater, but instead they use these sort of hazardous looking contraptions that one might think of as a point of use heater in a shower head. Ethan, you should cringe now. Taped electric connections within a few inches of a shower head. Ground? GFCI? what is that? We took a long walk this morning with my friends Cecilia and Marina. It was very pretty. Ancho is finally starting to get my explanation of why running here proves difficult. You are either walking up or down, not much in between.
Anyhow, we are enjoying cooking for ourselves and having some down time. I will probably start doing some more anthropological type stuff in the coming days. Ancho is plotting his training for the Tour de France 2006. We hope that everyone is well.

Much love,
Ancho and Lefty

Saturday, February 12, 2005

Four Wheelin

Well, in an effort to celebrate our final border crossing, Ancho and I took a LONG four wheel treck to Playa Naranjo on the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica in Guanacaste Province. We camped there last night and took a long walk on the beach this morning. Just enough time to turn a little pink here and there. Then we made the long journey back on the rutty, bumpy road. To give you an idea, it took us an hour and a half to drive 7 miles. Alas, it was fun, but we are happy to be back on the Panamerican Highway. Tomorrow, we drive to Acosta. I am getting ready to call my friend Janet in just a minuto and tell her we are on our way. Congratulations Ken and Andrea! We read about your exciting news. Ken, Ancho here says he does not think we have had many harrowing moments. We have not even had a substantial argument. Ancho votes that the most challenging thing thus far was driving thru Huehuetenango, Guatemala at dusk looking for our hotel. It was a rather difficult city to navigate. Anyhow, we will give you all an update on our address and accommodations when they materialize! Much love, Ancho and Lefty... GO CATS!!!

Friday, February 11, 2005

We found the southwest passage

Hey all- Ancho and I found Costa Rica and the Pacific Ocean today. Just wanted to let you all know of our successful final border crossing. Much love,
Ancho and Lefty

Thursday, February 10, 2005

Photos at long last

Here are just a few of the photos we took on the road. We will get more up later. If you click on the title of the photo you will get connected to our flickr.com site where we upload photos. This includes a more detailed description and I believe if you click on the photo from there, the photo will enlarge. So, give it a shot. We are off to a butterfly farm here in Granada and then tomorrow we head for our final border crossing into Costa Rica. Much love to all, Ancho and Lefty

Photos at long last

Here are just a few of the photos we took on the road. We will get more up later. If you click on the title of the photo you will get connected to our flickr.com site where we upload photos. This includes a more detailed description and I believe if you click on the photo from there, the photo will enlarge. So, give it a shot. We are off to a butterfly farm here in Granada and then tomorrow we head for our final border crossing into Costa Rica. Much love to all, Ancho and Lefty

Pigs in Heaven


Pigs in Heaven
Originally uploaded by ancho and lefty.

Poza Rica, Mexico (we think)


Flying Indians


Flying Indians
Originally uploaded by ancho and lefty.

Palenque


Palenque
Originally uploaded by ancho and lefty.

In the Shadow of Giants


In the Shadow of Giants
Originally uploaded by ancho and lefty.

New Friends from San Juan, Honduras


Wednesday, February 09, 2005

Nicaragua Nicaragua oh sweet Nicaragua

Ancho and I are here in Nicaragua now. Just wanted to let you all know. Our border crossing was uneventful and thus far the highway towards Managua and Granada is quite good. We had a good breakfast which was a godsend since dinner consisted of a spaghetti bolognese that actually consisted of ketchup, spaghetti, and microwave meatballs, at some hotel that was supposed to be nice. Oh well, Ancho actually refused to eat it... a first. I think it insulted his ethnic identity in some way. I ate a little and then gave up myself. We had snickers to make up for it. Anyhow, we are currently in La Estelli on our way to Lake Nicaragua . All is well. We are healthy save for Ancho's swollen bee sting finger.
Yesterday on the way to the border with Nicaragua we picked up a mother and her young son. They happened to be waiting for a ride from a VERY remote gas station in a beautiful part of the country. We took them all the way to Tegucigalpa.. about a four hour journey. I liked them very much and I got to practice my Spanish. The little boy, Brandon, had gall stones removed the year before in hospital in Tegucilgalpa and had to go back for a check up. It seemed like quite a journey from their small town of San Juan. Anyhow, they were very appreciative and we enjoyed getting to know them. I gave Brandon a little ceramic dog I bought in San Cristobal as a present. I will post their photo here soon, as soon as we get to a place where I can hook up my latop... this therefore is the reason for the lack of photos. We are thinking that Granada might have such a cyber cafe. We must hit the road muy pronto! Much love, Ancho and Lefty

Monday, February 07, 2005

Border Crossing Numero Tres

Hola from Honduras compatriots. Today we had a long but uneventful border crossing event, that despite its length was the least stressful I would say (I being Lefty). Since entering Honduras all I can say is wow, quite a beautiful place. We entered at Agua Caliente and then headed up to Santa Rosa de Copan. We ate pizza there and then took a beautiful one hour drive to Gracias. We are staying in a nice place tonight and hope to hit the road bright and early tomorrow to get to the border with Nicaragua. We will probably not cross the border until the day after tomorrow though. Thoughts on Honduras.... overall great roads that are uncrowded. Fantastic vistas. Helpful people. Ancho says we should mention that we have not told our tale of getting through Guatemela city with no map. (that is a detailed map of the city). Once again, when Ancho insisted that I get out and ask directions as my ZEN driving philosophy was once again leading us from our destination, we found of all things, a McDonalds to pull into and I asked a young couple if they could tell me the way to Rio Hondo, or the Atlantic Coastal Highway. Well, as luck would have it, the man and his wife lived close to the last major exit for the highway and so of course they drove us there. When we got to the exit we pulled over to give them some gas money for their trouble, as it was a good twenty minutes of driving and they of course refused our money. They were a really cute couple and they were so helpful. Cities are tough cookies. Fortunately the woman at customs in Honduras this morning gave us a map that has some city information on it which should be helpful.

The border crossing this morning was rather hilarious actually. There is absolutely no way in Hades we would have gotten through it as we did without help from a local. They do that, however, for money. But they deserve it I believe. Anyway, many dotting of I´s and crossing of t´s making of copies. Several discussions about the truck and what we were doing, etc. etc. When the main customs woman was finally through with me, I thanked her for her patience and apologized for not always understanding her directions. She then softened up and asked me if I had a map of Honduras. And so, we found ourselves owners of a free map, yes free! Now if they would only put street signs up!!!

And so we push on. The truck is running well. We have named her Bessie in honour of Melissa´s cat. Speaking of cats, I have heard that my precious has gone to live with her grandparents. Take good care of her. Also, the former caretaker of Poe, if you read this, please contact our former roommate aka Biscuits, as she is trying to reach you and has lost your number (shocker). She wants to come visit you on her way back to school.

We are ready to be in our home in Costa Rica, and will have a stay with one layover day in Granada, Nicaragua (hopefully) before the border push to Costa Rica and finally home.

Much love to everyone in all the nooks and crannies of the world where you find yourselves!

Saturday, February 05, 2005

Guatemala at long last

Ancho and I stayed in San Cristobal one more night and got up on Friday morning to drive to the border with Guatemala. Aside from a jerk working the Mexican side of the border who was ever unwilling to help us with a small currency problem, the border crossing was smoother than silk. Total time at the Guatemalan side was probably 20 minutes tops. From there we have been nothing but overwhelmed at the beauty of Guatemala and the great folks here. The roads are fantastic... much better than the non-autopistas in Mexico. In fact, Ancho thinks they are better than the autopistas. We stayed last night in a town about 80 kilometers from the border called Huehuetenango. It was a good place to stay because it was quiet and we enjoyed one morning without a rooster beckoning us to rise. The funniest thing happened once we got to huehue (as the locals call it. It is a slightly confusing city and we were having trouble finding our hotel (does this sound familiar?) So, Ancho told me to ask directions from the two Guatemalan police officers walking down the street, which I did because asking directions seems to be the trick to keeping this whole thing going. So anyway, the police were quite nice, but thought that there was no way in hades that I would find the hotel for which I was searching. So, one of the police men said in Spanish of course, I will come with you and show you myself. So he pile in our little truck (with a gearshift in the middle) and leads Ancho and I to a hotel. He was really nice and had just been restationed to the area and had only been working there for 15 days. Anyhow, his partner, who stayed behind had somehow ran up the hill (and I do mean up) and found us again after we had swirved our car around a million different ways and then told his partner in our truck the precise direction of our hotel. Anyhow, yet another story of chivalry. Also, I might mention that the border crossing into Guatemala is fairly simple and that all I had to do to avoid getting the truck interior sprayed with pesticide was tell the guy that I had problems with my lungs. Also, they never even searched our truck.. Thus far we have not had to unpack the beast, but we assume that will happen eventually.
So anyhow, we have been traveling through this beautiful country. It is really not possible to describe its beauty. We were going to speed through the rest of the trip but decided Guatemala was much to amazing for a speedy drive down the PanAmerican highway. So, Ancho turned off toward Lake Atitlan and we found an amazing place to camp on the property of hotel Vision Azul, nxt to Hotel Atitlan. Our tent opens right out onto the lake and the three, yes three, cones of volcanoes. Quite ideal and no loud punks to keep us up at night, as was the case in Palenque the night we camped. Apparently, the town we are in (Panajachel) was once the haunt of hippies and druggies but they got run out of town by higher prices and clean cut tourists. They are now across the lake and we will avoid them like the plague in order to avoid the relentless drum circles that they construct in the wee hours of night when most of us like sleeping.
All in all, Guatemala has much to offer and Ancho and I think we like it more than Mexico thus far. Good roads, helpful people, beautiful weather and FANTASTIC VISTAS make for a good trip. So, Melissa I have changed my mind. Skip the trip to Mexico and come to Guatemala... your dollar will go further also. Mamasita, in response to my health... I am fine although I have some allergies that are bothersome. All in all, I am well and have not relapsed or anything dreadful. Ancho is healthy as always and eats fearlessly and with much furvor. Surely he will obtain traveler's diarrhea at some point but has avoided that thus far. I have too for that matter. Perhaps I should cease the talk of poop. A Brit we met at Palenque called it dodgy tummy. Perhaps that is nicer. Well, Ancho and I are on our way to the old part of this town which is hopefully not as touristy as where we are now. I want to see the church which has Maya and Catholic imagery inside and we will go to the market to see if we can round up the makings for dinner. We may cross the Salvadoran border tomorrow, but may spend one more day in Guatemala as well. Melissa, you might check out information about tourism in Antigua, which is supposed to be nice and here around lake Atitlan.
Well, we miss you all and will be in touch.
Much love,
Ancho and Lefty

Wednesday, February 02, 2005

Palenque

Not much time here, but wanted to let you all now that Ancho and I toured Palenque today and all I can say is that you al should come and see for yourselves. Melissa, since Palenque is near Yucatan, you could do a little beaching there and then come here for some truly splendid ruinas. Anyhow, we are well and found a great camping site in the reserve by the ruins where wouldn´t you know it there are folks from california, ohio, quebec, etc. It´s a nice place with a pool and clean bathrooms, but there are lots of great hotels here too that aren´t too pricey. Dan and I have to return to San Cristobal tomorrow ( a winding 6 hour journey over mountains) because we have to connect with a higway there to the border crossing we want to take to Guatemala. We are also going to the house of a really great anthropologist who has done work in Latin America for decades. I met her when she came to speak at UK. We may stay at her house tomorrow night before setting out for the border. So, Ancho is waiting in the truck and I gotta go! Much love,
Lefty